Field Notes: Lili Klem in Bulgaria and Switzerland

A creative for fifteen years, Lili was raised on island time in Hawaii and now calls Los Angeles home, alongside her partner and their four cats. She models, styles, and shares her life with her community on Instagram, always drawing from nature, photography, and the talented people around her. Still, part of her is always somewhere else. "I daydream every day about running free into the woods," she says, "and starting a little hippie commune filled with a myriad of animals and wonky vegetable gardens."

After this trip, it's easy to see where that dream takes root.

Photos by Kristina Koseva (@kristinakoseva).

Lili wears the Jamie Midi Dress

 

Bulgaria: Sea, Forest, and a Little Bit of Magic

Because Kristina is from Bulgaria, the two return often, and each visit they explore a corner of the country they haven't seen yet. This time, it began at the water's edge.

Sozopol, on the Black Sea

Lili's first glimpse of the Black Sea came in Sozopol, a seaside town she describes as "the most adorable." Her advice is to stay in Old Town, where everything is walkable and the beach is never far. Their days followed an easy rhythm: wandering cobblestone streets, browsing the markets, napping on the sand in the afternoon, and lingering over dinner while the sun slipped into the sea.

Omaya Eco Village, Slavyanka Mountains

The beach is lovely, but the mountains are always Lili's favorite part. Tucked into the Slavyanka range, Omaya Eco Village felt like a page from a fairytale, with hobbit-esque eco homes scattered through the forest. It was private and tranquil, and, as Lili puts it, "somehow still a little boujee." The staff was warm, the food was among the best of the trip, and the property has its own resident guide: Simba, a small black cat who escorts guests along the wooded paths.

"I am so tempted to gatekeep Omaya," she admits, "but they deserve the world to know about them."

Lili wears the Juliet Ankle Skirt

 

The Rhodope Mountains

Our shoot took place here, in one of Lili's most beloved mountain ranges. Just a short escape from Sofia or Plovdiv, the Rhodopes are threaded with eco trails and freshwater springs clear enough to drink from. There are mossy forests, rushing rivers, and villages small enough to hold in your hand. In Lili's words: "Magic!"

Shiroka Laka: A Proposal in the Rain

Deep in the Rhodopes, a tiny folklore village sits along a rushing river. For about a week, Lili had carried a ring with her, waiting for the right moment. Then they arrived in Shiroka Laka on a stormy day, and something clicked.

"I remember thinking, I've always wanted to get engaged in the rain," she says. "So I did. The rest was effortlessly perfect."

Lili wears the Clea Maxi Dress

Switzerland: Lakes, Trains, and Storybook Mornings

From Bulgaria, the pair traveled through Switzerland, stopping in Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, Grindelwald, Zurich, Lucerne, Wengen, and Thun. Every town was impossibly picturesque, but the moments Lili remembers most were the quiet ones.

Morning Swims in Oberhofen

Each morning in Oberhofen, Lili would walk down to Lake Thun and swim while the early light sparkled across the water. The only other people there were a handful of older locals, starting their day the same way. "I remember thinking, wow, they've figured it out."

This stretch of lake is also where she and Kristina took their engagement photos, so it will always hold a special place in her heart.

The Train to Wengen

Wengen is a tiny mountain village you can't reach by car, so you take the train up from Lauterbrunnen. There's a childlike thrill in watching the valley fall away as you climb higher and higher. The day that followed was storybook through and through, with cows, waterfalls, and endless alpine green.

Harder Kulm, for the Brave

In Switzerland, beautiful views are everywhere you turn, but one of the most popular is Harder Kulm. A funicular carries you up the mountain from Interlaken to a deck that juts out over the cliff's edge. Lili's honest review? "I'm scared of heights, so this was my least favorite part of the trip, haha."

Lili wears the Mabel Midi Dress

Where to Eat

Rodopchani Restaurant, Shiroka Laka

This is where Lili and Kristina celebrated their engagement. The interior is chic and eclectic, the food was delicious, and Lili admits she'll probably be a little biased toward it forever.

Ksantana Bistro, Sozopol

This was one of the sweetest dinners of the trip. Ask for the tiny two-person table on the deck. It feels like your own secret corner and is the best seat in the house.

Omaya Eco Village, Slavyanka Mountains

The restaurant is wonderful, but Lili's favorite was having breakfast delivered to their eco house. Someone arrives at your door with a basket full of food, "and suddenly you're eating breakfast in the Shire."

Matcha and Vintage Finds

Matcha in Switzerland

Lili went matcha hunting in every town, partly for fun and partly to survive jet lag. Her favorites were C+ in Interlaken and Airtime Cafe Bakery in Lauterbrunnen.

Lili wears the Charisma Mini Dress

Vintage in Bulgaria

In Sofia, she recommends Studio Vintage, The Vintage Loft, and The Retro Shop Sofia. If you make it to Plovdiv, Antique Shop Plovdiv is her favorite.

It was a trip of cobblestones and cliffs, lake swims and mountain springs, and a proposal in the rain. For Lili, these are the places where the dream of a slower, wilder life feels a little closer.

Follow Lili on Instagram (@_lilikoi), and see more of Kristina Koseva's work at @kristinakoseva.

 

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